Marlon and I dawn patrolled yesterday morning (my last day of vacation) - the swell was still decent size (belly), the tide was high and the wind was down. When I was stretching on the beach, the waves were actually firing - chest to shoulder high sets that were dominating the middle break. I even thought I should go back to the truck and change out the Kujira 1095 for the 980.
Marlon bolted on his longboard and I was able to see him catch several.
I was cheating by staying on the inside. I caught several that would have me going from cabins almost the whole way to fenceline. It was a little frustrating to see an epic swell firing when I first got there, only to have it back down for almost the entire session.
The waves were bigger than this - just one of the pictures Marlon took while checking it out pre-session.
The Kujira 1095 - intuitively you would not think that foil is as good as it is - but honestly I'm having a hard time foiling on anything else. It is that good! Also - I did foil with the 75cm mast - I didn't breach once. Going to have to figure out what I'm doing with the 68 (but not until a low tide day).
W:11/F:21/S:9
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