Marlon got his work done early this afternoon and he specifically asked La if he could go surf (she said yes). The winds were forecasted to die back (almost to nothing) and the report said there was waist high waves breaking. We brought our longboards (but I had initially said I was going to bring the dually).
Well - I should have went with my gut because everything was wrong. There was a side on stiff wind that was chopping the surface up, the swell was occasionally head high, and the tide wasn't low at all (in fact it was deep enough to foil). The TJ Everyday is such a fun board - so this session was great regardless. In fact - the wind died back as forecasted and the surf smoothed out. I caught 5 - each one getting progressively larger. My fourth wave was head high and it was awesome. My last wave was just overhead and it was top to bottom - had to distribute some weight on the fly to stay on the wave, and after a really long ride in the pocket, I was pretty much done (I knew I wouldn't catch a better one before it got dark). Great way to start the week!
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