The surf was giant sized today up on the North Shore. Sometimes the surf will wrap into the South Shore when the conditions are right. Well something was different because there were waves - waist high on the sets, and they felt like they were bending in.
The tide was low - so I opted for the longboard. I've said this before, but my favorite thing to do when the waves are small is to control my speed by hand dragging.
Roland was out - and he was the only person on a foil (TOO SHALLOW WITH THE LOW TIDE). I think mixing it up is a good thing - reminds you how much fun surfing a longboard really is (though it isn't as fun as a good session on a foil).
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