Marlon and I hit the dawn patrol yesterday. Super glassy, head high + sets and a lowish tide (which was fine since the majority of the waves were breaking pretty far outside).
Marlon brought his longboard - I didn't see much of him and he actually came in a lot earlier than I did.
I was out for a long time - the waves were really good and I wanted to keep reassuring myself the mast settings were good.
Tim and Kalani were out - and Kalani was pumping around everywhere. Tim was enjoying his new Amundson custom Firebolt. Marvin came out towards the end of my session - he had his Glen Pang board (I might have to template that thing).
Most of the waves I caught were lefts - swell direction driven. After almost 3 hours out I called it and went home to take a long nap. Perfect day!
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