Dawn patrol this morning - this was the scene pulling into the parking lot. Marlon and I never take these moments for granted.
The surf came down to about half of what it has been. The tide was low (but the surf was still breaking outside the shallow areas). And there was hardly any wind - so the surface was glassy.
I saw Marlon catch a few waves on his longboard - it was one of those days where you could lay some nice carving turns down.
For me out in front of the cabins, the waves had a bias to the lefts. I'd takeoff on a concave face, make the transition to my feet, lean into left and just adjust up and down the face to keep the ride going. If I started to outrun the wave, I'd redirect and go until I ran into a breaking section.
I'm going to need a vacation from my weekend!!!
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