I got in an evening session after work - was at the beach around 4:30. The wind was lighter than yesterday, the tide seemed fuller and the waves were a hair smaller - but overall the conditions were better today. The only change I made to the gear from yesterday was removing one of the two 1 degree rear stabilizer shims.
Kalani, Scott and Prayot were riding the inside - picking up waves and riding for a bit, then peeling off the back and doing 2 and 3 for 1s. I did that for a bit, but didn't feel like I had a lot of runway, so I paddled to the middle. The waves would pitch lip, so not the best for foiling, but I did manage to catch a few gems. After that I went ahead and paddled out to the ghost break. I caught my first one and lined up on a head high wall going full speed. I would head down wave when the sections showed, but this was a long wave and I was going really fast. I ended up by the first cabin, and instead of going in, I paddled back out for another.
I caught a second one and got pretty much the same results - picked up the wave while it was big and not pitching lip, setup the ride and run the racetrack. I can't put into words how much fun this is!!!
I had to get home to get Fabien's board back to him (especially since there is swell).
I threw in this picture to show the alignment is better between the board and the front foil - it is amazing what two little plastic shims will do for performance!
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