Today was flat out nuking! Marlon and I checked out WPB first thing - nuking!!! I wanted to wait a bit to go out since the wind was forecasted to come up even more. So between the surf check at dawn, and my going out at Hickam, I mowed the lawn, took the kids to recycle the cans and bottles, and did a little ironing. By the time I got to Hickam, there was some heavy wind coming through - victory at sea conditions for sure.
You can see from the chart that there were some gusts touching 40. These nuking winds days are rare to begin with - but to have an overhead swell pushing through - that is a rare day indeed.
I pumped up the Reedin 3.6 and used the Kujira 980 again. The Kujira did not disappoint.
On way way out to the break, I noticed the waves were breaking pretty hard. I tripped on one headed out and got whacked around by the remainder of the set - not as bad a beating as yesterday, but it really would have sucked if any of my equipment got trashed all the way out there.
I caught several waves, but none of the big bombers coming through - wrong place, wrong time in most cases. My right knee was starting to disagree with me, so I headed in to the flat water so I could practice my transitions. I got in a few toe-side tacks on the inside. These are just direction changes right now - I have not been flying out of these transitions like I have been on my heelside tack. I even pulled a couple of short downwinders.
SUPER CRAZY NUTS TODAY!!!! AND LOVED EVERY SECOND OF IT!!!
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