Evening Session - 7/4/2020

Marlon and I hit PTs this afternoon.  The gate was open so we drove in and onto the sand next to the showers.  We checked the surf and at first it seemed small - but that was deceiving.  Sitting in the line up, the waves were breaking just overhead and the inside ones were chest high.  The tide was super high at 2.3' and with the bigger waves, we saw some overtopping of the berm.  What made today hard to ride was the onshore wind and the resulting chop.  Today's picture is an older one - with all the activity, I didn't take any today but this was the foil setup I used.

I did another shake up and brought out the skinny 4'10" with the Go Foil 24.5" (+ 3" track adaptor), the GL140 and the P17.5 tail.  It took me a couple of waves to get recalibrated on this setup.  My first two waves I wasn't getting my front foot up far enough to balance out the front wing.  I'd take the drop, veer left and then drop off foil in a hard nose dive (breaching).  I got tired of that real quick, shifted everything forward (paddling position is where it all starts) and the breaches thinned out.  The drops were really thrilling - you had to pick your waves carefully so you wouldn't get caught up in a pile of white water.  When I did catch the good ones, I'd take them left, do a swooping turn on a rapidly standing reform and get into high gear for the wall run.  I forgot how fast this wing was in the right conditions.  Marlon was catching everything (as usual).  Hopefully the wind lightens up and this swell sticks around.