I dragged Marlon out of bed on this, the morning of the beginning of his 19th trip around the great fusion reactor we orbit (Happy 18th Birthday Marlon!!!!). La had decorated the living room and since his presents are surf related, I gave it to him as he woke up (we are getting him a longboard blank, enough innegra and epoxy to glass this new board - but we also got him a new wetsuit vest), but he was still wanting to go back to sleep. I talked him into going.
We got there and the wind was brisk, but from the North so the waves were groomed clean. Belly high wrap from the NW swell on the sets, with a fuller tide to boot (better for me on the foil). Marlon said he thought it would be too cold, so he wanted to stay on the beach. I told him I'd catch three waves and come back in.
The other Victor that surfs this beach was also out.
The HS1550/300/72/60 combo is super versatile - here it makes something out of nothing.
I came in after this wave and Marlon had changed his mind about going out. I saw him ride some of the bigger waves that came in - cheater five going backside, hang 5, clinging to the pocket - he said it was totally worth it (and he stayed just the right temperature with the new vest).
Happy Birthday Marlon!!!!
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