It was windy. Real windy. The trades were up and a bit stronger than yesterday - but if you paddled for the right wave, it was still fun. Marlon and I got to the beach around 5 and we stayed out for a couple of hours. The waves seemed like they were a little bigger than yesterday - so much so that I had to pull back from a few takeoffs to not blow up - I had the GL180 on (same setup all around as yesterday) but really could have had the GL140 on to take the drops. I'm thinking it would also have been a good day to use the skinny 4'10" or even the 4'6" - less windage. The tide was mid way up to a 1.5' high (we were out at 1.0').
It was challenging taking off because of the wind. And it was even more challenging staying elevated on the foil. Despite the challenges, I did catch a bunch and rode them nearly all the way in. A few lined up and I got to build up some speed - so much fun! I also did get bombed by white water a few times. Marlon was taking a bunch of drops - almost non-stop catching! You need days like this to make you a better surfer, and to also appreciate the perfect days.
No comments:
Post a Comment