Evening Session - 6/3/2020

The new south swell was supposed to have peaked today - and it was certainly big.  When we pulled up to the parking area, looking further west you could see the white wash through the bushes.  Marlon's first comment was "Holy crap!!!".  Walking through the pine trees you could hear the waves, and the approach to the sand had lots of signs of overtopping.  It was awesome - 3' overhead on the sets.  The tide was pretty much high - I think it was 2'.  The wind was a little up - I did notice it trying to go right (which is straight into the wind for this spot).

I wanted a higher wave count today so I brought out the TJ Everyday.  This board never disappoints.  My second wave was a steep way overhead takeoff - that I pearled on.  Switching back and forth between longboards, shortboards, foilboards, different foils - I sometimes need a few calibration rides to get my footing.  This was one of those, but between the wave mutating, the bottom dropping out on me and me remembering I have to weight the back to clear the nose, I had an epic pearl dive. 

I caught plenty more great drops and a few super long rides all the way to the beach.

Marlon was picking up tons of waves as usual.  Days like today are what you wait and train for - super fun when they get here, lots of searching for those feelings when the drops aren't as epic (foiling fills a large part of that - but when the waves arrive it is time to surf).  Epic day!!!