For the most part, the swell was chest high on the sets and they were timed nicely so after riding a wave all the way in, I didn't have to fight through broken waves to get back out. The tide was rising to 2.0' so a wave would break outside, back down for a bit then stand back up again headed in to the beach. And for today, the wind was on light side so the waves were smoother than I've seen them in some time.
I decided to mix things up again and brought the Armstrong HS1850 (Uni Rear) on the wide 4'10". I love this foil more and more each time I bring it out. I didn't feel any of the turbulence I felt yesterday and everything was just butter smooth. I rode nearly every wave from the outside all the way in. On several of the waves as the inner wall stood up, I would try and use the entire face to make top down turns - totally epic feeling!!! I also got a few speed runs going right (minimal wind today so no slowing down with a head wind). It's days like today that keep me hooked doing just this and not wanting much of anything else...
Marlon - as usual - was catching everything.
On the way home, there was yet another sobriety checkpoint (here nearly all the time now) - the Mayor announced they will be closing State and County parks, beaches, and the like again starting tomorrow - going to need to bribe La to drive us to the beach again...
No comments:
Post a Comment