Dawn patrol this morning - Marlon brought his longboard and I brought the 4'8" with the ART999/375P.
Marlon paddled straight out to the outside break. I was hanging in the middle in front of the cabins.
The swell was bigger than anyone was expecting - more on this in a second. The tide was dropping and the wind was minimal.
I caught several really fun waves - double dipping and getting a few hard carves in along the way. I did eat several - taking off in foam balls sometimes doesn't pan out.
I saw Marlon catch some really beautiful waves - I got tempted and paddled to the far outside. I saw him catch two more over head waves (where did those come from???). Then the great lull set in.
I had to paddle further over back towards the cabins and inside - I finally started catching again.
W:96/F:85/S:28
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