Roland texted the waves were good and clean this afternoon. I was going to stay home and rest, but that text was too tempting (especially knowing what the past few days have been like). Marlon was in a nap - but I woke him up and told him the surf report was good. We were at the parking lot by 5pm.
I brought this board out - the Pigfish I made a while back. This board goes really well with the right fins. I've tried multiple sets of fins to get this board to hold/release/drive and run the way I thought it should - but for the longest time I wasn't feeling it. Until today.
The Machado Quads on the heel side and the Noriega Keel on the toe side.
I was able to work this board and put it exactly where I wanted it while riding. Tight cutbacks and sweeping carves - yup to both. And it screams down the line!!!
This session totally reinforced the brilliance of asymmetry and using science to get more out of surfing. What a blast this board/fin combo is!!!
W:96/F:85/S:31
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