The swell hitting peaked this afternoon - and how.
Similar conditions as yesterday, but it wasn't glassy... which made riding the big ones kinda challenging.
Same gear as the past couple of days - although Paul Cooper was out, and I know he was on the Progression 125... which means I really should try out as least the Spitfire 840... maybe tomorrow if I go out (and foil drive again - I've actually been thinking I want to try the Hammah Fish...).
Another pretty incredible session. The waves did get noticeably bigger compared to yesterday - and the bottoms were dropping out of the bigger ones. Proper wave choice was everything today.
I got some super long rides - which considering the chop, is pretty ludicrous
And even more ludicrous was hitting 24 mph on the Spitfire 960 without a wing!!!
I'm calling it 18 waves again - pretty much one every 5 minutes (which is becoming the norm). Marlon was flying his drone to film Paul - and he said the waves I was riding were double overhead while I was up on foil - RIDUNKULOUS!!!!
W:58/FD:32/F:4/S:9
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