Sunday, January 21, 2024

Dawn Patrol - 1/21/2024

The forecasts were chattering about the West swell wrapping into the South Shore - but they didn't say to what extent.

Well - on the outside it was barreling.  Most of my rides were overhead.  And most of my rides actually ended up in crashes.  


I had the Spitfire 960 on (~1200 sqcm) when I really should have had the SK8 950 on.


I was actually anticipating the waves to be smaller than yesterday (not almost twice as big).  The surface was a little bumpy (yesterday was almost sheet glass), still ridable (not like Friday) but super challenging with the size and speed.


To stay in the takeoff zone, I was using the throttle more.  I ended up at 49% battery when I was in.  That means for the time I was out, I was using more power than normal.  This is most likely due to the waves I missed because they were moving too fast.

Dennis was out, and he had the HPS980 bolted on - so he had even more trouble matching speed to some of the waves.  I did see him on a freight train (well overhead and throwing lip behind him).

Kalani brought the Dragonfly out today and Prayot was on a conventional SUP.


The reading on the speed chart will lead you to believe I had 16 waves.  But as I mentioned earlier, the speed at which this swell was moving and the form factor of the Spitfire 960 (drag), I wasn't able to catch several of the waves.

Also - a few of the waves I did catch had warbles in them and I ended up crashing.

I did catch a wave on the outside and decided to head in (because the outside was getting crowded with longboarders that felt it was ok to paddle on to the same waves I was already riding) - and ended up riding all the way to the inside.  I didn't quite make it (had to dodge and weave), so I went a little bit further out and caught one to take me in. 


I'm glad I had this session and the waves that I caught, but if I had known that it was going to be this big, I think I would have surfed on the inside instead (which I still may do...).

W:5/F:11/S:3

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