Friday, September 16, 2022

Evening Session - 9/16/2022

Evening session with Marlon.  Swell was holding in the shoulder high + range.  The tide was on the low side (so I decided to bring the longboard again - I wanted to see if the fin was truly the difference) and that was causing the lips to almost throw out.  And the wind - there was no wind and the surface was nearly glass.  It was raining on and off which also helped glass the surface.


Marlon had forgot his leash, so he was hovering in the middle break.  He caught a bunch of fun waves.


I brought the same board/fin as yesterday and wanted to repeat the rides.  I repeated the rides!!!  When the waves stood up, riding the board close up to the face and ALMOST getting covered.  Also when lining up for the walls, I could weight the back of the board and this fin setup is really floaty/fun!  


Days like this where waves and equipment compliment each other reminds me of how much fun surfing can be.

W:92/F:78/S:21

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