Evening Session - 5/6/2020

Marlon and I hit the beach again this afternoon - the front runners of a new swell were supposed to start showing so we gave it a shot.  The tide was nice a "foil" full - +1.9' (didn't hit bottom today).  The wind was a little stronger than yesterday, but still not bad.  Now the surf -

It was waist high on the background energy - but on the sets, well there were definitely head high rollers coming through.  There were some closeout sets also - these were probably the biggest waves I've seen at this break.  The lineup probably does push out further, but I had the foil today so I stayed in the middle.  Every time I looked over, Marlon was up and riding or paddling back out and jumping off the board.  I picked up plenty of rides - some green wave takeoffs, some big white water (but was able to keep on top of the board and foil out to clean face) - almost all super long rides.  Since I've been riding this front and rear wing combo for several sessions now, I did notice that the foil keeps wanting to keep a nose down attitude while running down a wall.  I'm wondering if the P18W needs to be trimmed to get the nose up.  Today I also noticed that I was exerting more back foot pressure than I normally do (usually balanced with a lean to the front).

Tomorrow is supposed to be bigger - going to shift over to the Dually Stubby to give it a proper anointment.