Tuesday, May 19, 2020

Evening Session - 5/19/2020

I ran some errands (gassed up the Odyssey, made the weekly grocery run, brought Marlon to deposit a check, etc) but then figured Marlon and I should go ahead and go surfing.  I brought the 4'10" with the same foil setup (GL140, P18W, 24.5"+3").  Marlon brought his longboard.  The swell seemed to be just a hair smaller than yesterday - but it was still fun sized (head high on the sets).  The tide was dropping from a high of 1.6'.  The wind was up - trades were blowing but it wasn't messing up the shape.  It was really crowded - especially for a Tuesday (looked like a Saturday).



Well - as good as we've been having it lately, today blew it all away.  My first three takeoffs were pretty standard - paddle in, float onto a takeoff and pop up.  The rides were really long and the waves were walled up - super gliding.  After the warm up, I started paddling for the outside waves - steep takeoffs and immediately up on foil - probably some of the best takeoffs I've had.  And I'd be setup for running the long stand up walls.  And I'd keep gliding until a section came up and pull a hard turn - and on a few waves I'd go from one turn straight into another - double cutbacks.  I think there is a correlation to surfing yesterday - taking off on overhead peaks on the Dually Stubby was perfect cross-training.



Marlon had some great waves too - head high takeoffs.  Incredible fun today!

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